Suffering from no hot water? It may not be a hard problem to fix. If you have an electric water heater that’s not working properly, there are several possible reasons—and many of them have relatively easy, inexpensive solutions.
When you want to get your hot water heater back up and running quickly, start by troubleshooting the common problems. In general, electric water heaters can be expected to last between 10 and 15 years. If you are still below that range, repairing a broken water heater is a less expensive option than replacing it.
How to Know If Your Electric Water Heater Needs Repair
The most obvious sign that your electric water heater has stopped working is if you don’t have a hot water supply in your home. However, that isn’t the only indication that your heater is on the fritz. Other clues that your electric water heater is not working as it should include sounds coming from the heater, low water pressure, leaks around the tank or even higher energy bills.
Electric water heaters operate with upper and lower heating elements. If a part is faulty, the hot water supply may be inconsistent or non-existent. Throughout time, sediment also builds up within a water heater tank, which can cause the system to corrode and/or work less efficiently.
One good way to avoid repairs is by maintaining your electric water heater with an annual tune-up, which is possible to DIY. This process involves draining the tank to flush out sediment, checking the temperature and examining the tank to look for any leaks.
How to Repair a Broken Electric Water Heater
If you suspect there is a problem with your electric water heater, start by taking a close look at the model and serial number on the tank. If you were the homeowner when the tank was installed, and have the paperwork, you can check that for information about a possible warranty.
Take note of the information so you can reference it if you need replacement parts or to tell if you might be eligible for coverage through a warranty.
If You Don’t Have Hot Water
If you can’t get any hot water from your showers or sinks, that suggests there is a problem with the electrical connection to the hot water heater, or an issue with one of the heating elements. Start by looking at the circuit breaker assigned to the hot water heater. If the breaker is tripped, the hot water heater isn’t getting the power it needs to function.
After turning the switch back on, it takes some time for the tank to reheat water. Wait at least 30 minutes to one hour before testing your hot water supply.
Electric hot water heaters have heating elements at the top and bottom of the tank. If either one of these is broken, you may not get hot water. You can test whether each heating element is working with a digital multimeter. In general, water that doesn’t reach the temperature set is a sign of a bad upper heating element, while hot water that runs out quickly is a sign of a bad lower heating element.
If you determine that one of the heating elements is faulty, replacement parts are available for about $15 to $100 and are pretty simple to swap out yourself. It can cost upwards of $200 to get a professional to replace a heating element.
Finally, try resetting the high-temperature limit for the water heater. You can do this by turning off the power source, opening the access panel to the top heating element and pushing the red high-temperature cutoff reset button. Then close the access panel and turn the power back on.
If the Water Is Too Hot
A hot water heater that is heating up the water too much can also be a hazard. This could be the result of a broken thermostat or if the thermostat is set too high. To check the temperature settings on an electric hot water heater, turn off the power source and open the access panel.
There are two thermostats and both should be set at the same temperature—somewhere between 115 and 125 degrees Fahrenheit. If one or both of the thermostats is set too high, adjust it to the proper temperature with a flathead screwdriver.
Thermostats can also malfunction and need to be replaced. New thermostats for hot water heaters start at about $12 and can be installed yourself. Professional installation costs an average of $115 to $215.
If the Hot Water Tank Is Leaking
Water heater tanks, valves and hoses are all susceptible to leaks, so if you start to notice any water pooling around the tank, you should investigate. Start by checking the drain tubes to see if any water is dripping. Because drain valves are regularly loosened and tightened during maintenance, the threads may become worn over time and result in a leak. If this happens, you can easily replace the drain valve for about $8 to $15.
Similarly, the cold water inlet pipe and hot water outlet pipe can be vulnerable to leaks. These parts can be replaced for as little as $13.
The bigger issue is if the hot water tank itself is leaking. This is a sign that the interior tank has rusted, which may also be evident by discolored or smelly water. If the tank is corroded, it needs to be replaced. To limit the damage while you’re waiting for a replacement, turn off the water and power supplies and drain the tank.
If Water Is Discolored or Smelly
Although less common than other problems related to the hot water heater, discolored or smelly water coming from your tap is an issue that should not be ignored. This could be due to a corroded tank or the development of bacteria in the tank—which are both serious concerns.
There is a good chance that you will need to replace the hot water heater, especially if the tank is corroded. Alternatively, you may be able to fix this problem with a new anode rod. However, this still calls for a professional to make the replacement. You can expect to spend about $175 to $315 for professional anode replacement.
Who used up all the hot water?! This Fix-It Guide on electric water heater repair tells how an electric water heater works, what often goes wrong, how to identify an electric water heater problem, and what parts and tools you will need to fix it. It gives instructions for how to troubleshoot an electric water heater thermostat, how to test and replace a heating element, how to test and replace a high-limit cutoff, how to drain an electric water heater tank, how to test and replace a relief valve, and how to replace an electric water heater drain valve. It also refers to heating element repair and electric service panel repair.
How Does an Electric Water Heater Work?
A water heater is an apparatus for heating water and then storing it for later use. A residential water heater typically warms water to a temperature between 120° and 140°F. When a hot-water faucet is opened, hot water flows from the top of the tank toward the faucet, and cold water enters the tank to replace it. In an electric water heater, the thermostat senses a drop in the water’s temperature and completes an electrical circuit to the heating elements. Electric water heaters usually have both an upper and a lower heating element; each is controlled by a separate thermostat. Once water in the tank reaches the set temperature, the thermostats stop the flow of electricity to the heating elements. In addition, an anode (magnesium) rod attracts impurities in the water that would otherwise attack the metal tank.
hat Can Go Wrong with an Electric Water Heater?
Because electric water heaters are simple in operation, few things can go wrong with them, and solutions are relatively easy to figure out. Heating elements and thermostats fail. The high-temperature cutoff may trip. The pressure relief valve may malfunction. Sediment can settle in the tank.
How Can I Identify an Electric Water Heater Problem?
- If there is no hot water, first push the reset button on the high-temperature cutoff; test the thermostats and replace if faulty (see below). Test the heating element(s) and replace if faulty (see below).
- If there is not enough hot water, adjust the thermostat settings. As needed, reset, test and replace thermostats and heating elements if faulty.
- If the heater leaks, check the pressure relief valve and if the leak persists, replace the valve (see below). Tighten mounting bolts on the heating element gasket and replace if needed.
- If the tank is rusted, replace the water heater.
- If the electric water heater is noisy, drain and flush the tank (see below). Replace damaged or scale-encrusted elements.
- If the hot water is dirty, drain and flush the tank. If the drain valve leaks, tighten or replace it (see below). Note: Regularly draining the tank will prolong the life of your electric water heater.
- If your home has hard water, check the anode rod yearly (see below) and replace it if necessary.
What Do I Need for Electric Water Heater Repair?
Replacement parts are available from local hardware and plumbing supply stores. The tools you will need to fix an electric water heater include these:
- Wrenches
- Screwdrivers
- Multimeter
- Hose
- Pipe tape
- Knife
Troubleshoot an electric water heater thermostat:
- Shut off power to the heater at the electrical service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
- Unscrew and remove the electric water heater access panel.
- Using a small screwdriver, turn the thermostat dial counterclockwise to lower the temperature, or clockwise to raise it. If the water heater doesn’t maintain the proper temperature, test the thermostat.
- Disconnect one wire to the upper thermostat to test it. Set a multimeter to RX1 (resistance times 1) and touch a probe to the thermostat terminals as indicated in the owner’s manual. Depending on the model and the terminals tested, the tester should show 1 or infinity (open) or about 0 (closed).
- Test the lower thermostat in the same manner.
- If necessary, replace the thermostat. Unscrew it from its mounting and install one of the same model, size, and rating. Once you install it, adjust the thermostat following instructions in your owner’s manual.
Test and replace an electric water heater heating element:
- Turn off power at the electrical service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
- Remove the access panel on the electric water heater.
- Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the tester displays anything but infinity ( open circuit), replace the element.
- If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1 and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance reading at all ( closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner.
- To remove the element, first drain the heater.
- Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element.
- Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
Test and replace an electric water heater high-limit cutoff:
- Disconnect power to the heater at the electrical service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
- Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
- Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you’ll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
- Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.
Drain an electric water heater tank:
- Shut off power at the electrical service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
- Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the house (to speed draining).
- Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside the house.
- Open the drain valve and allow all water to drain out.
- To refill the tank, close the drain valve tightly and open the cold-water supply valve. Also open a nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full and the faucet can be closed.
- Once the tank is full, turn the electrical power back on.
Test and replace an electric water heater relief valve:
- Lift the spring lever on the valve to fill a small cup. Check the cup for sediment.
- If no water spurts out, or if water continues to drip after the valve is released, replace the valve.
- Cut power at the electrical service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. Close the cold-water supply valve.
- Drain a few gallons of water from the tank.
- Unscrew and remove the discharge pipe if used.
- Loosen the relief valve with a pipe wrench, then remove the valve by hand.
- Apply pipe tape to the threads of the replacement valve and screw it into the tank by hand. Tighten it with a pipe wrench. Screw the discharge pipe (if any) into the valve outlet.
- Refill the water heater and restore electrical power.
Replace an electric water heater drain valve:
- Shut off power at the electrical service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
- Close the cold-water supply valve and drain the water heater completely (see above).
- Unscrew the drain valve with a pipe wrench.
- Replace the drain valve with an identical unit wrapping the end with pipe tape.
- Refill the tank and restore electricity.
